Boattrip 2016

Going home via Lisbon

You might think that going the 600 km from A Coruna to Lisbon would be a piece of a cake. A Coruna has a train station, the bus hub of Galicia and airport. But the flights are both expensive and overnighters. The train systems in Spain and Portugal are not in sync. There are railroad tracks connecting the countries but the schedules are not in sync and do not match. We try to take the bus but the bus is full. Finally, we take the local bus to Porto and the high speed train to Lisbon.

It turns out that all hotels are sold out in Lisbon but some BnB are still available. We book one and get a confirmation from the host but as we arrive there is no one meeting us. After some calls to the AirBnB service desk we can cancel the booking and get a hotel that got some cancellation. After checking in and taking a shower, the evening turns out to be good after all and we tumble to bed exhausted from the day.

Next day in Lisboa is a sightseeing day where we walk the streets and go up to the fortress Castelo San Jorge with beautiful views on the city. Later we take the tram to the Baixa Alta district and have a nice meal and some drinks.

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The mountain streetcar to Bairro Alto

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The Santa Justa elevator raised by Eiffel

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View from Castelo San Jorge

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Magdalena church

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Praça do Comércio

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City center

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View from Bairro Alto

We go home early to be able to wake up and go to the airport.

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Boattrip 2016

Galicia – part I

As we set sail off Avilés, the main halyard gets stuck around the radar reflector and refuse to come loose. We need to send Sofie up in the rig to get it loose – a brave act in the increasing wind.

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Sofie after coming down from the mast

After this incident, we continue in the usual swell onto the outmost province of Spain – Galicia. First stop is Ribadeo. We have a nice sail out of the picturesque coastline with mountains far back and a rugged coastline where the seas keep pounding.

As we enter Ribadeo, we spot another catamaran that turns out to carry a Swedish flag. The boat turns out to be Think Twice with Björn and Gertrud aboard who are heading for the ARC on their Fountain-Pajot Lavezzi 40. We go over and have a nice evening on their boat. Always nice to meet other sailors and exchange ideas and experiences.

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Björn and Gertrud aboard Think Twice

The next day, we wander around in Ribadeo. The town is small but beautiful with narrow streets. It has a lot of interesting building from the time when people returned wealthy from the colonies in Latin America. A special kid of houses dot the town from this period when these people should display their wealth.

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Ribadeo

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Ribadeo

We decide to go to the Cathedral Beach later in the evening. At low water it is supposed to be beautiful and this is no overstatement. The cliffs has been eroded to arches and you can walk in the sand with the sea rolling onto the beach as the sun sets. This day, the sun is not to be seen since it is foggy and occasional showers. However, this turs out to be good – there are not so many people and the fog turns the landscape to magical.

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Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Sofie at Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Cathedral Beach

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Ribadeo at night

We leave Ribadeo and go to look at the Cathedral beach from the sea. It is nice but not as impressive as from the shore.

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At sea again

Next stop is Viveiro and we have talked to Björn so he have reserved a place for us at the pontoon. Good to see them again and it is nice to have a prime spot in this small town.

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Two swedish catamarans in Viveiro

I slip into my running shoes and climb the hill of San Roque, which turns out to be a smaller mountain with a spectacular view over the harbour, the town and its surroundings. I run around the inner lake and out on the beach before returning home and spending the evening with Björn and Gertrud on Melody. Björn has put a lot of research in different communication technology and it is nice to get his views and ideas.

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Viveiro from San Roque

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The city beach

The day after, we have a walk in the town and I inspire Sofie to join me on a second climb up on the mountain. As we reach the top, there is a wedding going on so we cannot enter the church but the views are still beautiful.

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The Viveiro old town with its monastary

We do a negotiation with Viveiro that is the same company as A Coruna and get a good rate for the upcoming two-week leave for both marinas. No big differences so we decide to continue according to plan to the larger A Coruna with more communication options.

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On our way to A Coruña

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On our way to A Coruña

A Couruna turns out to be a beautiful town with a nice marina. The marina is next to the old town with a fort nearby. The setting is nice with the sea just across the breakwater. We spend a couple of days experience this old town with its nice restaurants and views.

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Marina Coruña

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Maria Pita square and Concello da Coruña

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A Coruña

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Santo Domingo church – start of Camino Ingles from A Coruña

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Menhires towards the sea

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A Coruña

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The Hercules lighthouse with history since roman times

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Oktoberfest

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The city marina

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Castelo de Coruña

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Boat trip 2017

Asturia

As we have a good distance to cover, we sail off early before the sun rises. We continue west from Santander and enjoy the mountains that build up behind the rocky beaches. A very nice scenery and it is very peaceful to let it sink in as we glide by out on the sea. We try to pause for lunch in Ria de Tina Mayor but the entrance is shallow and the swell is high so we decide to skip this tempting idea.

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The Asturian coast

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Entrance to Ria de Tina Mayor

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Weather is clearing up

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The mountains in the distance

We continue westward and decide to take a chance and see if there is space in Lastres – described as a “very pretty unspoilt fishing village”. As we enter the harbour we spot a pontoon and grab a space. Just as we tie up, a Hallberg-Rassy joins us on the other space and we help them tie up. The Italian owner is sailing up to Ireland together with his daughter. We go up together to register but there is no office and there is nobody at the Nautic club so we leave our names to one of the shops that know them and go back to the boats. We return through the narrow streets and have a nice dinner aboard.

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Melody in the harbour

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The beach at Lastres

Sofie and I decide to explore the village and the narrow streets and the small houses climbing on the mountain is truly pretty. By chance, we stumble into the tourist office and get a map and direction to the top of the mountain. We continue the steep climb up to the church and after a while, we reach the top with its chapel and restaurant looking out over the sea. The scenery is breath taking and far below, we can see Melody in the harbour.

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Lastres – climbing the narrow streets

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Lastres

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View from the chapel

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View from the mountain

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Lastres

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The square in Lastres

I wake up early and go for my daily quest for bread. The village is completely quiet and at a café I get directions is Spanish how to find the bakery. As my Spanish is non-existent I pick up the word for Church and start climbing. The hungry nose then leads me down a narrow passage to a bakery where you stand in the middle of the baking process as you decide your pick. After that, I countinue up to the mountain top. If the scenery was beautiful the evening before, it is now magic. Some birds sing and you can hear the sea below but otherwise this is a completely peaceful place and stunning view. I sit down at a bench and take my time and enjoy the moment.

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The church in the morning

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Sunrise from the mountain

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Lastres in the morning light

We expect to spend some days in Gijon as we heard from friends that it is a nice city. The marina sits next to the old town in contrast with Bilbao and Santander. We take a walk into the town and gets some information. There is two beaches connected to the town and the Playa de San Larenzo city beach is very nice. At the cape to the sea, a park has been set up on the grounds of an old fortress with a concrete monument marking its place.

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Gijon from the park at Cerro de Sta Catalina

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The San Lorenzo city beach

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Elogio del Horizonte

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Cimadevilla – Gijon old town

Gijon is famous for its cider culture and we go out on the town to taste. The cider should be poured from distance without looking – the higher the better. The Asturian cider tastes different from both the Swedish sweet cider and the Breton dry cider and is a good refreshment.

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Pouring cider

In the harbour, we also spot a Swedish flag. We have not met any Swedish sailors since Brest and it is fun to meet Anders and Lena from S/Y Space. They have just arrived after crossing the Biscay and are eager to experience the town and join us for a walk in the town and some drinks and snacks.

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Anders and Lena with S/Y Space in the background

We stay for some days and enjoy Gijon and just relax. Swimming, visiting the roman baths, running, eating & drinking, walking and listening to bagpipe orchestras. The party life is late, and as I go for the usual quest for morning bread, I am in good company of people who are still partying – some even entering into new bars. There is also an army of people cleaning up fighting a never-ending battle with glass, plastic and other remnants after the night.

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Gijon from the far end of San Lorenzo

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Bag pipe orchestra

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The roman baths in the morning light

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The hard-working city cleaners

Next stop is Avilés which is not very well described in our pilot book. This is the third largest city in Asturia after Gijon and the capital Oveido and it turns out to be a beautiful town. The harbour is however filled to its rim with small sailing boats obviously participating in a race. We manage to tie up outside of an orphaned trimaran. It turns out that the race is a qualification race for a race to Azores and later across the Atlantic where they start from Les Sables d’Olonne. Funny to think that they have sailed from our starting points in two days when it has taken us two months.

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The lighthouse at the Avilés approach

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Race boats arriving from Les Sables d’Olonne

We have a light dinner at the main square and then we split up in a shopping group (Sofie and Birgitta) and a city exploration group (me). The town is fascinating with medieval, renaissance, baroque, modern architecture intertwined with parks. The evening is enjoyed in the Sidreria Tiella Asturia that we were recommended for local food. The menu is vast, the rations are huge and the setting next to the square and church is nice. A very good ending of this stop and Asturia in general.

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Streets of Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés – the 17th century arcade. Note different pavements for people and animals

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés

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Avilés – the medevial Fransicaner church

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