Boat trip 2017

Bordeaux

In the morning we take a taxi down to the nice classic train station in La Rochelle. Nice start and a train that delivers us directly into the Bordeaux city centre. We have booked a hotel some hundred meters from the station so we can leave our luggage after a short walk. Time to explore this new city! The promenade after La Garonne river has a line of buildings with exactly the same facades which gives a good-looking impression but somewhat conform. We take a good walk along a suggested walking route that takes us to different monuments, parks, buildings and churches. In the evening we stroll through the old town and although it is Sunday evening it turns out that Monday is holiday so restaurants and bars are filled with people. A very interesting surrounding and we have a nice dinner in old town. 

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Quai Richelieu

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Old town

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Cathédrale Saint-André

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Inside the cathedral

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Inside the cathedral

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The clock tower next to cathedral

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Monument aux Girondins

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Old town

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Old town

The morning after we go out to the Airport and Birgitta goes back home. Since I am not in a hurry, I go by the city bus back and get another view of the city since we do not go on the motorway. I stop off at Gambetta city gate with the intention to take a closer look at the Church and climb its separate clock tower. There are 233 steps and the view from the upper platform is very nice. I always love going to high towers in new towns. It gives you a good sense for navigating as well as providing stunning views.

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View of the cathedral from the clock tower

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View from the clock tower

Since I decided to move to an AirBnB in old town, I go back to the hotel and get my bag. I should meet the host at 15.00 so I have a lot of time to sit down and soak up the atmosphere, do some planning and have a Galette lunch nearby. Turns out that the flat is in the middle of everything, neat and in an historic building. Even if it was in the most crowded restaurant street, it was facing the yard and completely silent.

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Cool staircase to the first appartment

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The first appartment

The city is pretty compact and easy to walk around in so I stroll around and look at sights.

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Pont de Pierre

The host recommended a wine bar and I like their concept where you can try a sip (3 cl, half glass or glass) and pay by a card. These bars are all over town and gives the opportunity to taste high quality wines to get a sense of their differences.

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Choosing wine at Aux Quatrre coins du Vin

Sadly, the flat was occupied the next night, so I needed to move some hundred meters. But before leaving I decide to take a morning run and check out the marina north of town. On the entrance of the marina, there is another of these submarine bases that this coast is filled with. The marina turns out to be closed so I turn around and run over the modern bridge. As I am running over I see a row of Lagoons sitting by the river and decide to check it out. Is this a private club, a Lagoon dealer or someone else that you can see if they can provide a space one or two nights. It turns out to be a Beneteau Group production site and they could not provide space. But they were very helpful and emailed me some alternative options if I decide to sail up to Bordeaux. We will see. A better option is probably to stay in Pauillac in the middle of the Medoc wine country.

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The closed marina and the submarine base

I meet the new host at 12 and it shows to be a very different but cosy apartment nearly at the “Place de la Bourse”. Interesting layout with a patio as you enter the door, a kitchen and living room after that. A French balcony to enjoy the perfect location where I actually can see both the Place de la Bourse as well as Place du Parlement. AirBnB is really a good solution to find a place to stay in the middle of everything.

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Patio in the second appartment

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View from the balcony out towards Place de la Bourse

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View to other side towards Place du Parlement

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Place de la Bourse

I decide to do a tour of the city and start by renting one of the city bikes that you find everywhere in the town. These self service bike rental stations should be a model for the rental car business cutting out the tedious experience to get a car. I go over to the other side of the river and get a nice view over the water and continue to pinpoint the activity tomorrow – the wine museum.

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Self service rental bike. How can this be applied to Rental Cars?

As I like to learn more on the city, I go to the Aquitaine Museum. Since the wealth of this city is based on trade and winery, this view of history takes a large portion where the competition with La Rochelle as a centre for merchant shipping is described. The overseas trade was significant and brought a lot of capital to the city.

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A map of old Bordeaux in the Aquitaine Museum

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Nice ship model

Next day is put aside for “La Cité du Vin” – the wine museum. People have told me that you need at least one full day so I start early which turns out to be a wise decision. The museum is huge and with many interactive stations where wine production from all around the world is described. You can listen to stories of wine makers, watch films and even try out smells and colours. Extremely nice museum worth to watch. There is also a wine shop as well as a tasting area. A very good selection of fine wines in the same sip/half-glass/glass manner as in other wine bars. Included in the ticket is also a taste sample taken at the top of the museum overlooking Bordeaux. I thought I planned the day to cover all parts but my time budget turns out to be tight and I stay to the very last minute. Filled with impressions I take a slow walk back to the town.

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La Cité du Vin – the huge wine museum

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One of the many exhibitions

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The tasting bar with a view

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The wine shop

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Station for smells

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Another interactive station

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Walking home by the river Garonne

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Boat trip 2017

Charante-Maritime

Finally. We are on our way down to S/Y Melody. Sailing trip ahead – this year from Les Sables d’Olonne in France to Algarve coast in Portugal. It feels good to come down to Paris and feel the French atmosphere. Good food in every corner and a cheerful “Bonjour” as you meet people. I just love this part of Europe. The weather is nice and we stay in Montparnasse district in south Paris that gives us close contact to the Montparnasse Station as well as some nice neighbourhood to take a walk.

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A walk in the park in Paris

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Beautiful weather in Paris

Early the next morning after breakfast and enter the train. The timeless feeling of train stations fills me with travel excitement. It is classic travel with no boundaries although we step on the extremely fast and efficient French TGV-trains.

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I just love train stations

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The TGV train delivering us to the coast

As we arrive in Les Sables d’Olonne, we take a taxi to the Port Olona marina where we find the boat and step aboard. It feels wonderful to get the relaxing feeling of the second home and this is a nice city to start the summer sailing. After preparing the most basic things, we take a walk along the channel and take the electric ferry over to the centre of town. Here the restaurants are packed with people and even if the season has not started yet, we are not able to get a table at my favourite – Fleur du Thym. But the town is full of restaurants so we take a sea food restaurant at the beach and have a dinner as the sun sets over the old town instead. That works too 🙂

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The inlet to Les Sables d’Olonne

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Les Sables d’Olonne

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The city beach

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Street art in Ile de Penotte in Les Sables

The next morning we leave Les Sables d’Olonne exactly 10 years after we picked up Melody as new. It feels very nice 10 years to look back on. And there is a row of new Lagoons waithing for their owners to sail away.

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New Lagoons ready to be picked up by their owners

First stop is last years favourite island – Ile de Ré. We have a nice sail down to this island south-east of Les Sables d’Olonne and enter the port at Saint-Martin de Ré in perfect tide. We get a nice sport just outside the fortification wall and go into town to explore. It is a beautiful town and we decide to stay two nights and rent bikes and bike to the north part of the island instead of moving to Ars-de-Ré that we have not been to.

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Chart from the region

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Melody in Ile de Ré

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré

The road to Ars-de-Ré is winding and go along the coast and through the salt fields. Here they put salt water to dry to a higher concentration of salt and then skim the top to get Fleur-de-Sel. The economy of these islands besides tourism are oysters, salt and wine growing destined for wine and cognac. Ars-de-Ré is a sleepy town and we decide to go to the last end of the island where it should be possible to climb the lighthouse tower. It is an impressive tower and climbing its stairs takes its tolls but is awarded with a nice view over the ocean and the island. We get back into town just as the rains starts falling again and we sit at a restaurant and watch the rain fall over the old harbour.

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Taking a bike tour over the island

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Oysters don’t come fresher than this

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Birgitta cycling through the vineyards

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Oysters coming up from the sea

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Salt water dams to harvest Fleur-de-Sel

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Ars-de-Ré

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Phare de Balines at north end of Ile de Ré

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The Stairs in the Light house

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré at night

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré in the morning

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré in the morning

Our plan is to visit Ile d’Oleron next day and due to tidal considerations, we leave Ile-de-Ré early in the morning and set sail south-east towards the bridge from La Rochelle over to the island. It is a beautiful day and with decent wind so we reach Saint-Denis d’Oleron just at the right time when the inlet is still possible to navigate. This is a sleepy small town and we take a quick walk over the town, visit the church and buy some groceries.

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Setting sail at sun rise

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The bridge from mainland to Ile-de-Ré

After that we take a walk after the shores with sandy beaches, WW2 bunkers as well as tidal ponds for fishing. I am curious of this northernmost part with its lighthouse so I put on my running shoes and go for a run. I have a fascination of these giant constructions that have been sitting there for centuries, guiding seafarers and taken care of by committed keepers in harsh conditions. The map is somewhat confusing so the time back from the lighthouse becomes significantly longer than expected so a shower and being treated with mussels at a harbour restaurant felt good.

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Ile d’Oleron, beach north of Saint-Denis

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Phare De Chassiron on north point of Ile d’Oleron

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Phare De Chassiron

The next morning we move to Boyardville and reach it in good tide. The harbour master came running since he did not think that we could get in, but I convinced him that an entrance of 7 meters is enough. He looked very sceptic when we squeezed ourselves into the inner harbour with very small margins on each side. I told him that the trick is to grease the hulls, have a bit of speed and a lot of self-confidence. We expected this to be a larger city, but it turned out to be about the same size. It turned out to be the same size and we wander along before we rent bikes and do a biking trip to the cities inland. It is a beautiful landscape and we get some nice views. We also visit the Ile d’Oleron vinery and taste their wines and their Cognac. After a nice long bike trip, we return to the boat and have a great dinner at the boat as the evening sun is beaming down on us.

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Malody next to the narrow inlet to Boyardville harbour

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Bike trip on Ile d’Oleron

Birgittas vacation starts to come to it’s end and we decide to take the last stop on the cruise in Rochefort. This is one of the major naval centres of imperial France and located up the Charante river that gives this region its name. But first we go out to take a look at the Fort Boyard some 2M outside Boyardville. This fort was the most fort ever built in France and was expected to guard the entrance to Rochefort. It is a very strange building in the middle of the ocean. As it was completed in 1860’s the weapon technology has advanced to a stage so it had no purpose and was transformed to a prison. Now it serves as a stage for the Fort Boyard TV shows – in Sweden “Fångarna på Fortet”. The Ile d’Aix next to the fort shows up to be a nice little island.

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Fort Boyard

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Ile d’Aix

Rochefort is very nice city and we wander along the nice streets and take a tour at the naval museum before having a nice dinner down at the docks.

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Going through the narrow inlet to Rochefort harbour

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Melody in Rochefort harbour

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The old naval rope factory

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L’Hermoine

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Rochefort

In the early morning as we need to wait for the high water I jump into my running shoes and the run is magic by the Charante river with slight fog hanging over the low water river bed.

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Morning run by the Charante river at low water

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Nice morning

Our last stop and where we put the boat to rest for some weeks is La Rochelle. A beautiful old city surrounding the harbour with two towers watching the entrance. We take a walk through the city and have a nice dinner in old town. We put the boat in the huge Les Minimes marina with over 3000 (!) berths. Next day, we stroll around in the city and enjoy the sights and visit some marina shops and the next day it is time to depart to Bordeaux.

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The old harbour in La Rochelle

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The huge Les Minimes marina in La Rochelle

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