We need to leave Archachon early in the morning to match currents and tidal water at the tricky entrances at both Arcachon and Capbreton that is todays stop. We leave when it is still dark in the harbour and go through the entrance just as the light permits us to see the sand banks. The sun slowly sets over the giant sand dunes, which is a rewarding view. As we come further, dolphins come to play and make it even better. Weather is nice, but just before Capbreton, the fog comes over us again but it is no problem in entering the harbour.

The entrance is very narrow and shallow with a tidal lake and a river inside so caution should be taken. We enter in nearly perfect conditions but the sea and current is noticeable and I should not want to enter this port in rough weather in mid-tide. Boats entering with the flood get shot as a cork through the channel and there is a rough spot of 100 meter with very disturbed seas.

The centre of Capbreton is up the river but we stay in the harbour where there are a number of restaurants and a casino. This part of the city is clearly built around the large marina and its beaches. We take a stroll around the harbour and eat in a nice restaurant by the sea.

An interesting setup is the fish market where each boat has its own booth right next to the harbour. Smart logistics and you can really know where the food is coming from.

As we circle the marina, we hear live music and stay at a restaurant where a French Elvis sings. He truly connects with his audience and apart from the well-known Elvis songs, he also shows off with everything from Sinatra to Creedence.

The next day as we wait for the tide, I take a walk up to the town centre that offers more shops and restaurants in a compact centre.

We leave Capbreton in relatively calm seas and head for Anglet outside Bayonne. The marina did not have any space for us however so we decide to continue to Ciboure further south. This city is located in a bay that hosts three small cities that are interconnected – Ciboure and larger Saint-Jean-de-Luz who is separated by a river and Socoa at the entrance to the bay. The harbour master is waiting for us to show us our berth and help us with the mooring lines. Just as we cleared everything up a hard rain sets in so we stay in the boat for dinner as the rain falls. Nice evening.

Next morning, I wake up early, go for a walk on the new town, and get a pleasant surprise with a market. I buy bread, cheeses, sausages, ham and local produced juice and cider. Very nice start of the day and after a fresh breakfast we go to watch the dancers performing at the market.

Ciboure is located on a steep hill and we decide to climb the hill to a tower that sadly is closed. The view must be stunning from there as we get some nice views even if we could not climb up. We continue our walk out to Socoa, take a nice lunch in the harbour and have a look at the fort and the breakwater.

In the afternoon, we start to explore Saint-Jean-de-Luz and its beach. This city is a bit larger and boast with a great beach. At the square in the harbour, there is a scene and a number of restaurants around it. We sit down at a restaurant that overlooks a nice summerhouse of Louis XIV. There are bands playing on the scene, weather is nice and we enjoy the city before going back.

Next day, I take the running shoes and run to the far end of the beach and up the hill to Pointe de Sainte-Barbe. A very rewarding view over the bay and the cliffs north towards Biarritz.

I run back and find a bench on the Ciboure mountain overlooking the bay from the other end. A very calm place and I sit down and reflect over life and its pleasures and challenges.

Birgitta arrives to the airport and we go back to the boat for a late dinner at a seaside restaurant. A very nice feature of this coast is that the sunsets are great as it sets over the Biscay.

Time to do an expedition again. We take the train to Bayonne to have a look at the capitol of the French Basque coast. A very nice town with a majestic cathedral and nice old town along a quay.

 

We would like to go to a visit to one of the producers of the famous ham and we find one but it was in French. The guide speaks very fast so my limited French is not enough to understand the full picture but together with the tour you get the basics as well as a tasting afterwards.

We get on the ten-minute hop to Biarritz to get a quick visit to this famous resort. The pilot book clearly said that this was a fair weather anchorage only and when you arrive you understand why. The port is for small crafts only and the waves are pushed up so even in this calm weather, the water is filled with surfers. Extremely nice views though and since there are direct flights to Stockholm you can hear Swedish everywhere which feels strange. We stroll around, enjoy the views, and have a nice dinner before taking the last train home.

Last city on the French Basque coast is Hendaye. This town is border town to Spain and a small ferry runs across to Hondarribia on the other side of the river. Hendaye also has a very nice beach where the city center is located further up by the river. The marina is located inside the bay but 100 meter across to the beach so location is perfect.

I pull out the running shoes and go out to Pointe-Saint-Anne on the far side of the beach. Again, hard work pays off with a stunning view of the bay and the coast. The train through the park is part of a trail from Biarritz to Hendaye that is called Sentier Littoral.

The evening is spent on the Hendaye Chipiron festival – a street festival for mini squids. Many people on the streets, bands playing and dancing everywhere. We also take a look at the town centre and have a walk to the bridge that leads over to Spain.

There is a five star PADI diving centre next to the marina and we have decided to go for a dive. Neither Jessica or Alexander has a certificate so they start to get the basic training. They get a very good instructor in Lucille who is pedagogic and calm and everything turns out well. After some hours in the pool, we go out to the diving site in the sea. I join for this dive and as it is the first dive in years so it is good to get “de-rusted” in a calm environment. As Lucille takes care of Jessica and Alexander, I do exercises to feel that I am back in the right element. Feels fantastic and we also spot a nice octopus. Feels very good as we go back!