Boat trip 2017

Pauillac and Haut-Medoc

I sail down the Gironde to Pauillac that sits in the middle of the Medoc wine country. Medoc in turn is divided into Haut-Medoc on the upper part of the Gironde closer to Bordeaux and Bas-Medoc that stretches out to the ocean. Haut-Medoc is considered to produce some of the best wines in the world and I am curious to learn more.

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The entrance to the Pauillac harbour

Pauillac turns out to be a very sleepy town, at least outside the tourist season. I stray along the streets and decide that I should go along with my initial plan and rent a bicycle to visit some wineries. I visit the tourist office to ask whether it is possible to get some guided tours. It turns out that the most prestigious ones want to book a month ahead and that you should have a written confirmation. Planning holidays one month ahead is simply not my habit so I continue asking. I am curious on the 1855 classification and want to get to one of the four premier cru in Haut-Medoc. Three of them are located in Pauillac so I have some hopes. Three of them only take visits from “professionals”. I wanted to ask if I did not look like a professional but I guess that the answer had been pretty blunt. To my surprise they were able to book a visit to Mouton-Rothschild the same afternoon. Off-season is often good season!

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The promenade in Pauillac

They also give me books, maps and directions so I can do my planning. I love these moments when you get to a new place and start decide on how to explore it. Here I am in the middle of all these Chateaus in close distance and a lot to learn about wine. I take a coffee and make a rough plan to stay close to Pauillac the first days and then go down to Margeaux in the southern part later. I also would like to visit Blaye on the other side of Gironde as people told me that it is a beautiful city.

I take a look at Tripadvisor and find out that there should be a really good restaurant just outside town. This restaurant turns out to be a two-star Michelin restaurant and I get so surprised to get a table the same evening so I decide to enjoy a nice dinner there. The food and its display was perfect and along with the setting of the chateau and the vineyard outside the window it made a perfect evening.

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Château Cordeillan-Bages

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Château Cordeillan-Bages – starter on a vine

I get my bike and start by going north through the wine lands towards Saint-Estephe that is the most northern appellation in Haut-Medoc. Beautiful scenery and nice roads. Fields with vines stretching mile after mile and castles of different styles and sizes scattered in the landscape. No need to stress so I take my time and just enjoy getting lost in the landscape.

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Chateau Lafite-Rothschild – sister chateau of Mouton-Rothschild

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Road to Saint-Estephe

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Cos d’Estournel

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Chateau in the vineyard

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And another chateau

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Getting lost on purpose

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Chateau and hotel

In the afternoon, I arrive to Chateau Mouton-Rothschild. It is a nice classy place but I expected more of the exterior. I went by Chateau Lafite-Rothschild on the way and that was a huge chateau. As expected, the reception is very formal and it is obvious that they want to keep an exclusive status on everything. The guide – dressed in a suit even if it is extremely hot outside – start by telling more about the 1855 classification. This classification was set in 1855 for Bordeaux wines on order from Napoleon III for the world exhibition. The classed wines was divided in five crus and has not changed since then. Except for Mouton-Rothschild that became a premier cru in 1973. The guide emphasizes that this has nothing to do with the power possessed by the Rothschild family but with the quality of the wine and the 1855 requirement that there should be an actual chateau on the premises. Regardless of background, this reclassification to the best of the best must naturally have a great impact of the possibility to set their own prices and the tour confirms that cost control has not been the prime focus. It is interesting that even the most conservative of rules can be bent if you have the power and perseverance to do so.

We continue to the new winery building that is intended to implement concepts from the theatre with the vats on the scene. A very neat production facility with impeccable order.

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Mouton Rothschild – the theatre

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Mouton Rothschild – Vats on stage

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Mouton Rothschild vats of French oak

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Mouton Rothschild – Wine cellar for really old wines

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Mouton Rothschild – barrels

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Mouton Rothschild

There is also a museum but photos is not allowed. It contained a lot of artefacts ranging from roman time statuettes to gifts by different royal families and political leaders. It has nothing to do about the wine but the family history, heritage and connections to political leaders and other establishments take up a lot of the focus of the tour.

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Mouton Rothschild – gifts from Scottish Army (!)

We end with an interesting tasting session with two of their less famous wines from other chateaus (Chateau Clerc Milon and Chateau Armailhac) together with their flagship – a Mouton Rothschild from 2007 for 650 EUR per bottle. The wines from the good years of 2009 and 2010 comes at 1200 EUR…. Each year has a new label from a chosen artist where some has caused debates.

What makes the tasting very interesting is that one of the other visitors have a private guide who turns out to be a wine broker. Besides sharing his tasting experience, he also gives his insight of this tricky industry. As an example, brokers and merchants try a very young wine just aged some months – the Primeur– that is the base for negotiations. The production is then often priced and sold at this stage which must be a huge risk since these wines normally comes at their best right after at least 10 years. For some of the prestigious wines such as this there will probably always be a market but this goes for all the other wines as well. Interesting and fascinating trade.

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Mouton Rothschild – tasting the wine

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The yearly labels for Mouton Rothschild

I met a couple from upstate New York at the tasting and we decided to go for a dinner together in Saint-Julien which is the next city south from Pauillac. They had reserved a table at a restaurant conveniently named “Le Saint-Julien” so I take the bike back to the boat and have a shower before I bike the 15 minute ride. I arrive early so I take a quick tour of this small place and decide to go back when the chateaus are open. The evening becomes very nice talking on life and work balance and how to design your life to make the most of it.

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On the way to Saint-Julien

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Road to Saint-Julien harbour

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Dinner with my new american friends

Next day I decide to go south. I pass chateau after chateau. Vineyards everywhere and a good peaceful setting. South of Saint-Julien, I stop by Chateau Bechevelle described as “Versailles of Medoc”. I manage to squeeze into the next English group at 11 and since I am an early bird, this gives me plenty of time to go down to the river and relax. I find a peaceful place down in the former harbour looking out of the Gironde, sit down, and enjoy life.

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Château Pichon Longueville

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Having a peaceful time down at Gironde in old Bechevelle harbour

The tour of Bechevelle is more relaxed and more concentrated on the wine even if it is natural to start with the history of this castle that is one of the older. The name is supposed to derive from the fact that the sailors lowered the sail in respect for the Admiral XXX who lived in the castle and this gives their logotype its meaning – a ship with lowered sails. This is another 1855 Classé chateau, which means that costs has not been spared. Good guide though, professional tour but also a pleasant feeling and a wine that sits well on my palate. After the tasting, I take a walk in the park and enjoy the magnificent castle.

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The new facilities at Chateau Bechevelle

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Vines

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Chateau Bechevelle

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Tasting at Chateau Bechevelle

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Chateau Bechevelle seen from the park

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A logo in real life

I get up on the bike and continue. I pass a village and decide to visit a smaller chateau. I spot Chateau Moulin Rouge and decide to give it a chance. This is a completely other setting. A very nice woman greets me, start talking of the wines until she has to go and her son takes over, and gives me the story and the tasting.

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And another chateau…

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Chateau Moulin Rouge

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Wine tasting

Fuelled by this more energetic direct meeting I stop by Chateau Aney and walk into a building. A man shows up and is happy to show me their wines and do a spontaneous tasting. This is a knowledgeable guide if there has ever been one and we discuss a lot of the classification system that confuses me. Beside the 1855 Classé system, there is Chateau Bourgeois, Crus Artisans and cooperatives. He confirms my understanding that the 1855 classification was done at that time and since it has not changed since then it is somewhat disconnected from the actual quality. Bechevelle will be a fourth cru and Mouton Rothschild will be a first regardless of how they improve their production. Knowing that the vines has been exchanged and that most of the production techniques since 1855 makes this connection weak. What is true is that these chateaus have the name and resources to make good wine and most of them understand that this is a jewel that needs to maintained. Chateau Aney is classed into the Chateau Bourgeois which was founded 1932 for the wines that did not make the classification in 1855. This classification is renewed and thus has another meaning. Good wine and to a more modest price.

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Tasting and discussing at Chateau Aney

Feeling energetic – I continue to Margeaux and have a late lunch. I manage to find a tour in English at Chateau Desmirail. As I come there, it shows out to be just me and the guide is happy to get anything to do. She describes the history of the castle, how they have decided to keep much of the traditional houses and techniques and she puts a lot of energy in the tour.

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Chateau Desmirail

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Chateau Desmirail – Vats

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Chateau Desmirail – experiment with amphora

After this tour, I take the bike and go back through this beautiful landscape and chateaus. I arrive back in Pauillac in good time to be able to enjoy the sunset and have some seafood on the promenade.

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Chateau Palmer

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Chateau Margaux

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Chateau Palmer from the vineyards

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Back in Pauillac

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Sunset

Next day is reserved for sightseeing. I read and heard about the city of Blaye and decide to bike down to a ferry down the Gironde and go over to the other side. I love to walk around in old fortresses and amaze of the work and resources put into these fortifications. Blaye has a huge citadel to block the Gironde from enemy ships. This citadel is accompanied of a fort in the middle of the river as well as Fort Medoc on “my” side of the river. First I stop at Fort Medoc before taking the ferry.

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Early morning in Fort Medoc

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Ferry to Blaye

Blaye is completely dominated by the view of the citadel so I walk up to this fortress and book a tour in the afternoon. Until then I ask if there are any Chateau that I could visit and get recommended to Chateau Marquis de Vauban. Vauban was the architect of the fortifications along with more than 160 (!) fortifications in France. This Chateau visit yet another type of visit. There is a small train that you can take from the citadel to the castle, and the tour was clearly intended for larger groups where you could have a lunch or dinner at the chateau.

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Morning coffee in Blaye

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Chateau Marquis de Vauban

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Small train to the chateau from the citadel

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Ready for dinner!

As it is midsummer’s day, I decide to try to find a restaurant where they serve herring. No midsummer is complete without herring. I finally find a place where they serve smoked herring and when I ask for vodka to go along with that I get a confused look from the waitress but she manage to find a bottle hidden somewhere.

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Herring with Snaps!

The citadel tour guide is very energetic and again I get my own guide that is happy to have anything to do. Perfect, we have a lot of time to talk and we visit some parts that is not possible to visit with a group. Impressive citadel but I do not envy the soldiers that were put here for life. As usual when I visit these fortifications, I feel grateful that I am born in the right time and place to do what I do.

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Way up to the citadel

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The citadel

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Blaye Citadel!

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View of the town from citadel

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Street in the citadel

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The kings entrance

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Citadel bridge

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VIP tour into the secret underground passages

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Private garden of residents

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Citadel gardens

Next day is “Lamb day” in Pauillac. This turns out to be a street market with tables where you can have lamb and other food. As I skipped breakfast, I start with some boiled escargots that tasted delicious. There are geese walking around and people are enjoying this hot Sunday afternoon. I spend it with my German “neighbours” – Martin and Ariane – who are on a half-year trip with their classic ship built in 1907. They have went through the canals down to the Mediterranean, through Canal du Midi and are leaving next day to Royan to continue north. We have a nice afternoon, go to the cooperative for a tasting and some purchase and then we spend the evening at the La Salamandre seafood restaurant talking on how to enjoy life.

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Breakfast escargots coming up

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Martin on his ship from 1907

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Livestock at the market

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Rainbow over Pauillac

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Last evening with Martin and Ariane

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Boat trip 2017

Royan and Marennes

My plan is to leave La Rochelle and go to Pauillac in Haut-Medoc. Due to the tides I have to break the trip into two parts, one passing the Gironde entrance at relative high water and then arriving at Pauillac at slack tide since the currents are strong in the harbour. I decide to do the stop in Royan and thought it would be a good idea to go on a bicycle to Marennes from there. Marennes is famous for its oysters and a major part of France oyster production come from the Marennes-Oleron area. The Marennes harbour should however be limited in size and what is worse is that there is a power cable at the entrance that is too low for me. Bike seems to be the choice.

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Melody in the harbour

Royan was a classic pre-war resort that was destroyed by English bombers in January and totally erased by American bombers in April 16 and 17 – less than a month before the WW2 ended. The latter was the first use of Napalm and it killed 1700 civilians in a horrible way. Now it is a completely reconstructed city with the only exception of the Saint-Pierre church from the 13th century. The city is centred around the beach and the harbour in a circular shape with a wider alley and square between the sea and the market that has the rooftop of a shell.

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Pre-war poster for the seaside resort Royan

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Morning promenade

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The market

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1200 Saint-Pierre church – the only old building still standing

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The modern Notre Dame church

The city is filled with young people and it turns out that the world championship of Frisbee is currently going on. Amazing to see the players running around in the hot sand when it should be mandatory to stay in the water. I take a number of swims myself during the day but still feel too hot. The restaurants in the harbour offers some comfort and shadow but it is extremely hot.

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World Championship of Frisbee

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Teams warming up on the beach

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Flags in the sun

Next day it is time to take the bike tour to Marennes. Two option – either the shorter road that has traffic and the longer that is a bike route. I think the longer route looks nices and it goes like a serpentine by the shores and is indeed very beautiful. I make stops to take a swim and enjoy the views. The last part goes through a forest by the sea which is good since the sun really takes its toll.

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Going west from Royan

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Plage de la Grande Côte looking west

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Plage de la Grande Côte looking east

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The forest at La Coubre

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Lighthouse of La Coubre

The winding road makes the estimated 25 km trip turn out to be more like 50 km and I arrive in Marennes in the late afternoon. The harbour is very limited in size so even if I had the possibility to come under the power cable – I doubt that I could have found a space. The city is very sleepy and no restaurants are open. I also do not find any of the expected oyster palaces. I did not cycle all this way to eat kebab so I go into a pharmacy and ask for directions and they recommend going to the beach Marennes-Plage.

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The Marenne Harbour

Marennes-Plage turns out to be a small beach community with restaurants along the beach. I manage to spot a nice seafood restaurant and can get my hard-won Gillardeau oysters. Extremely nice.

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Finally. Some extremely nice Gillardeau oysters as reward

It is getting late so I bike off so I can get through the forests when there is still light and I arrive to Royan well after midnight to return my bike.

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Returning the bike in the middle of the night

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La Rochelle

Getting back to La Rochelle is a nice sailing trip in light winds and the “Capitainerie” in the marina directs me to a perfect spot. This marina is the biggest I have ever seen – over 3000 berths and a forest of masts. A number of shops, restaurants and facilities nearby and a nice beach on the ocean side.

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The huge Les Minimes marina

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The beach next to the marina

Time to dig a bit deeper into the city and buy some stuff that I need. I decide to take the recommended city walk where you get a map and you can follow a trail with descriptions of what you see.

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City sightseeing

As I like to climb towers – I get very pleased when you get a ticket where you can climb all three of the towers at the entrance of the old port. In all of the towers there are also exhibitions so this will take a while. The first tower is the chain tower where they used to pull chains between the towers to close the port. You get a good view of both the town, the port and the entrance.

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The harbour seen from the chain tower

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The Saint-Nicolas tower seen from the chain tower

Next tower is the Lantern Tower that looks like something picked from Disney. The view from the upper platform is great and I stay for a while.

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View towards the Lantern tower

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View of the marina from the Lantern tower

After a lunch in the harbour, I climb the third and oldest Nicolas tower that have a great view over the town and the harbour. It also gives a nice view of the lively and good outdoor bar Belle du Gabut.

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Belle du Gabut

There are a lot of restaurants but I got a recommendation for the blue boat in the harbour that honestly looked like a fast food shack. Very basic in terms of tables and glasses but great seafood to a very decent price in an unparallelled setting in the old harbour.

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Fresh oysters in the old harbour

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The blue boat

I decide to get a beer in the nice outdoor graffiti bar Belle du Gabut with an alternative setting and good atmosphere. After enjoying the scene I take a walk on the streets of La Rochelle and enjoy the street life of this nice city.

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The Belle du Gabut outdoor bar and restaurant area

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Street life

I spend the last evening on a restaurant on the beach next to the marina. Having mussels overlooking the sun set over the ocean feels like a worthy last day of this nice visit to La Rochelle.

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Last evening restaurant view

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Île-d’Aix

I get restless sometimes and after some days fixing the boat in a hot La Rochelle, I decide to get some wind in the sails. As Birgitta and I sailed from Île d’Oleron to Rochelle, we passed Île-d’Aix and there were a number of free visitor boys so I think that if I am lucky I can grab one of them this time. If not – I go back to La Rochelle. The holding ground should not be good and the currents are strong so I rule out the anchoring option. As I arrive, there are a number of buoys still free and I take one of the outer ones so I stay afloat regardless of tide. Time to do some exploration again!

First day, I do a quick visit but is not sure where to put the dinghy so I return after a quick look at the Fort de la Rade and the city. The weather is nice and I am securely tied up to a buoy so there I decide to stay overnight and come back tomorrow.

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The main street Rue Gourgaud going north

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Main street towards south

This island has historically had a strategic position in the inlet to the naval centre Rochefort. The island hosts two forts – one on the south side and one on the north side. They formed a line of defence together with the forts on Île d’Oleron, Fort Boyard, Île de Ré and on the mainland. Now it is a calm and very relaxed island with no car traffic. Oysters and Mussel beds are everywhere and there are some nice beaches.

My decision to stay is rewarded by a nice sunset over the fort on the island and with Fort Boyard in the distance.

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Fort Boyard in the distance

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Sun setting over Fort de la Rade

Second day, I launch the dinghy again and set course towards the large beach where I thought I could put the dinghy aground during low water. However, the bottom is muddy and not nice so I decide to try the quay where I find a place to tie up and let the tide do the rest. Sometimes, the tide comes in handy. You drag the boat so it lays still and stay for a while until it is completely dried out.

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Sometimes, the tides is great. Leaving the Dinghy securely for a couple of hours

I wander along the streets in the small sleepy city that is waiting for this days delivery of tourists from the nearby citys. It is nice to stroll around in the Fort de la Rade on the southern side of Pointe Saint-Catherine and have a look over the sound to Île d’Oleron and enjoy the good looking and original lighthouse installation. Strolling through the streets gives a peaceful mindset which I can understand would not be the case in the vacation period when this city must be flooded by people.

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The fortress Fort de la Rade in the southern Pointe Saint-Catherine

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Fort de la Rade

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Overllooking the west side of the island

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The lighthouse on Pointe Saint-Catherine

First stop is to get large fresh oysters directly from the sea with a view of the oyster beds.

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Oysters at the Oyster farm.

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Overlooking the oyster and mussel beds in the eastern bay

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No cars on this island except for the fire brigade

The island is not large so I take a promenade around it and I do a visit to the other fort on the norther part – Fort Liedot. This is a heavy battery fort and as usual I am happy that I was not born as a French soldier who had to build and live my life on one of these stone fortresses.

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The Fort Liedot on the northern part of the island

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Fort Liedot

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The more rugged northern beaches

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The sandy beaches on the west side

I even manage to squeeze in a galette before it is time to return to the dinghy before the tide comes back in. I get a very nice evening in the boat with the sun setting again and it feels like life is very, very good.

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Back in town

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Cognac

From Bordeaux, I decide to rent a car to go to Cognac. The morning is filled with logistics of returning the keys to the host, finding the rental location, doing the contracts and finding the car and document the previous damages. Why is the car rental process still so tedious? Is it done on purpose to get you to sign all the extra fees? Should be a straight process after booking the car online. Anyhow, I get a nice C4 with GPS, roll out of Bordeaux in sunshine, and reach the small town of Cognac in the afternoon. I check into the nice but odd hotel I booked on the main street. Time to explore a new town!

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Place Francois I – city center

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The Saint-Léger church

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The city gate by river Charante

As it is afternoon, I decide to visit the Cognac museum first and try to find tours the next day. I stroll down the city, through the city gate and reach the river Charante where the museum is located. It is a nice small museum in a nice building describing both the city and its history briefly as well as give introduction to the Cognac houses and production.

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A wine press in the Cognac museum

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Old production

I plan to visit two houses – Martell and Otard based on the thinking that Martell is a major brand and must be more “industrial” and Otard since I learned at the museum that this family of Norwegian and Scottish ancestry bought the castle where the French king Francois I was born and lived.

Before the visits, I take a promenade through the town, see the nice public garden and the city hall and take a detour to visit Remy Martin. They had a very nice shop with extremely nice Cognacs – the most expensive at 22000 Euros but no tasting.

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Taking a walk

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A Remy Martin for 22000 EUR

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Nice old monastary yard

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The public garden

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The city hall

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Nice work in public garden

Next stop is Camus which is the only family owned house left. The lady in the shop is knowledgeable and nice and let me do a tasting of all of their different Cognacs. Just a small sip and even if their XO is nice, I fall for the Ile-de-Ré Cognac where the grapes has been growing on the island and matured on the island and refilled in another vat and matured again in Cognac. The island cognacs have a taste that goes better for me so I buy a bottle.

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Lineup of the Camus cognacs

With perfect timing I reach the Martell house just in time after having a galette at Creperie l’Olympia. I start to grow an addiction to these filled pancakes. The Martell tour is what I expected. Professional, well planned and with a tour through the site and ended with a tasting of the XO and the Cordon Bleu.

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Display of grapes and different soils during Martell tour

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The Cognac districs

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Display of blending process at Martell

Right after that I run down to the Otard house down at the river and come just-in-time for the tour. Completely other setting. We are four persons on the tour and the guide is both knowledgeable and shows a lot more passion for the Otard cognac house, the production as well as showing the castle. I get to taste the VSOP, XO and even the top 1795. Very nice Cognacs and good setting.

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The nice entrance to Otard castle

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View of River Charante from the Otard tour

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The ball room in the Otard Castle

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Otard storage

After the tastings, it is time for a promenade by the river through the Francois I park which is a large green area by the river.

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River Charante

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The White house

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View from the bridge towards the town and Otard Castle and Hennesy next to each other

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Walk in the park

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Walk in the park

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Bordeaux

In the morning we take a taxi down to the nice classic train station in La Rochelle. Nice start and a train that delivers us directly into the Bordeaux city centre. We have booked a hotel some hundred meters from the station so we can leave our luggage after a short walk. Time to explore this new city! The promenade after La Garonne river has a line of buildings with exactly the same facades which gives a good-looking impression but somewhat conform. We take a good walk along a suggested walking route that takes us to different monuments, parks, buildings and churches. In the evening we stroll through the old town and although it is Sunday evening it turns out that Monday is holiday so restaurants and bars are filled with people. A very interesting surrounding and we have a nice dinner in old town. 

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Quai Richelieu

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Old town

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Cathédrale Saint-André

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Inside the cathedral

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Inside the cathedral

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The clock tower next to cathedral

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Monument aux Girondins

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Old town

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Old town

The morning after we go out to the Airport and Birgitta goes back home. Since I am not in a hurry, I go by the city bus back and get another view of the city since we do not go on the motorway. I stop off at Gambetta city gate with the intention to take a closer look at the Church and climb its separate clock tower. There are 233 steps and the view from the upper platform is very nice. I always love going to high towers in new towns. It gives you a good sense for navigating as well as providing stunning views.

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View of the cathedral from the clock tower

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View from the clock tower

Since I decided to move to an AirBnB in old town, I go back to the hotel and get my bag. I should meet the host at 15.00 so I have a lot of time to sit down and soak up the atmosphere, do some planning and have a Galette lunch nearby. Turns out that the flat is in the middle of everything, neat and in an historic building. Even if it was in the most crowded restaurant street, it was facing the yard and completely silent.

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Cool staircase to the first appartment

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The first appartment

The city is pretty compact and easy to walk around in so I stroll around and look at sights.

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Pont de Pierre

The host recommended a wine bar and I like their concept where you can try a sip (3 cl, half glass or glass) and pay by a card. These bars are all over town and gives the opportunity to taste high quality wines to get a sense of their differences.

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Choosing wine at Aux Quatrre coins du Vin

Sadly, the flat was occupied the next night, so I needed to move some hundred meters. But before leaving I decide to take a morning run and check out the marina north of town. On the entrance of the marina, there is another of these submarine bases that this coast is filled with. The marina turns out to be closed so I turn around and run over the modern bridge. As I am running over I see a row of Lagoons sitting by the river and decide to check it out. Is this a private club, a Lagoon dealer or someone else that you can see if they can provide a space one or two nights. It turns out to be a Beneteau Group production site and they could not provide space. But they were very helpful and emailed me some alternative options if I decide to sail up to Bordeaux. We will see. A better option is probably to stay in Pauillac in the middle of the Medoc wine country.

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The closed marina and the submarine base

I meet the new host at 12 and it shows to be a very different but cosy apartment nearly at the “Place de la Bourse”. Interesting layout with a patio as you enter the door, a kitchen and living room after that. A French balcony to enjoy the perfect location where I actually can see both the Place de la Bourse as well as Place du Parlement. AirBnB is really a good solution to find a place to stay in the middle of everything.

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Patio in the second appartment

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View from the balcony out towards Place de la Bourse

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View to other side towards Place du Parlement

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Place de la Bourse

I decide to do a tour of the city and start by renting one of the city bikes that you find everywhere in the town. These self service bike rental stations should be a model for the rental car business cutting out the tedious experience to get a car. I go over to the other side of the river and get a nice view over the water and continue to pinpoint the activity tomorrow – the wine museum.

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Self service rental bike. How can this be applied to Rental Cars?

As I like to learn more on the city, I go to the Aquitaine Museum. Since the wealth of this city is based on trade and winery, this view of history takes a large portion where the competition with La Rochelle as a centre for merchant shipping is described. The overseas trade was significant and brought a lot of capital to the city.

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A map of old Bordeaux in the Aquitaine Museum

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Nice ship model

Next day is put aside for “La Cité du Vin” – the wine museum. People have told me that you need at least one full day so I start early which turns out to be a wise decision. The museum is huge and with many interactive stations where wine production from all around the world is described. You can listen to stories of wine makers, watch films and even try out smells and colours. Extremely nice museum worth to watch. There is also a wine shop as well as a tasting area. A very good selection of fine wines in the same sip/half-glass/glass manner as in other wine bars. Included in the ticket is also a taste sample taken at the top of the museum overlooking Bordeaux. I thought I planned the day to cover all parts but my time budget turns out to be tight and I stay to the very last minute. Filled with impressions I take a slow walk back to the town.

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La Cité du Vin – the huge wine museum

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One of the many exhibitions

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The tasting bar with a view

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The wine shop

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Station for smells

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Another interactive station

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Walking home by the river Garonne

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Boat trip 2017

Charante-Maritime

Finally. We are on our way down to S/Y Melody. Sailing trip ahead – this year from Les Sables d’Olonne in France to Algarve coast in Portugal. It feels good to come down to Paris and feel the French atmosphere. Good food in every corner and a cheerful “Bonjour” as you meet people. I just love this part of Europe. The weather is nice and we stay in Montparnasse district in south Paris that gives us close contact to the Montparnasse Station as well as some nice neighbourhood to take a walk.

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A walk in the park in Paris

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Beautiful weather in Paris

Early the next morning after breakfast and enter the train. The timeless feeling of train stations fills me with travel excitement. It is classic travel with no boundaries although we step on the extremely fast and efficient French TGV-trains.

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I just love train stations

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The TGV train delivering us to the coast

As we arrive in Les Sables d’Olonne, we take a taxi to the Port Olona marina where we find the boat and step aboard. It feels wonderful to get the relaxing feeling of the second home and this is a nice city to start the summer sailing. After preparing the most basic things, we take a walk along the channel and take the electric ferry over to the centre of town. Here the restaurants are packed with people and even if the season has not started yet, we are not able to get a table at my favourite – Fleur du Thym. But the town is full of restaurants so we take a sea food restaurant at the beach and have a dinner as the sun sets over the old town instead. That works too 🙂

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The inlet to Les Sables d’Olonne

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Les Sables d’Olonne

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The city beach

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Street art in Ile de Penotte in Les Sables

The next morning we leave Les Sables d’Olonne exactly 10 years after we picked up Melody as new. It feels very nice 10 years to look back on. And there is a row of new Lagoons waithing for their owners to sail away.

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New Lagoons ready to be picked up by their owners

First stop is last years favourite island – Ile de Ré. We have a nice sail down to this island south-east of Les Sables d’Olonne and enter the port at Saint-Martin de Ré in perfect tide. We get a nice sport just outside the fortification wall and go into town to explore. It is a beautiful town and we decide to stay two nights and rent bikes and bike to the north part of the island instead of moving to Ars-de-Ré that we have not been to.

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Chart from the region

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Melody in Ile de Ré

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré

The road to Ars-de-Ré is winding and go along the coast and through the salt fields. Here they put salt water to dry to a higher concentration of salt and then skim the top to get Fleur-de-Sel. The economy of these islands besides tourism are oysters, salt and wine growing destined for wine and cognac. Ars-de-Ré is a sleepy town and we decide to go to the last end of the island where it should be possible to climb the lighthouse tower. It is an impressive tower and climbing its stairs takes its tolls but is awarded with a nice view over the ocean and the island. We get back into town just as the rains starts falling again and we sit at a restaurant and watch the rain fall over the old harbour.

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Taking a bike tour over the island

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Oysters don’t come fresher than this

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Birgitta cycling through the vineyards

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Oysters coming up from the sea

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Salt water dams to harvest Fleur-de-Sel

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Ars-de-Ré

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Phare de Balines at north end of Ile de Ré

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The Stairs in the Light house

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré at night

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré in the morning

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Saint-Martin-de-Ré in the morning

Our plan is to visit Ile d’Oleron next day and due to tidal considerations, we leave Ile-de-Ré early in the morning and set sail south-east towards the bridge from La Rochelle over to the island. It is a beautiful day and with decent wind so we reach Saint-Denis d’Oleron just at the right time when the inlet is still possible to navigate. This is a sleepy small town and we take a quick walk over the town, visit the church and buy some groceries.

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Setting sail at sun rise

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The bridge from mainland to Ile-de-Ré

After that we take a walk after the shores with sandy beaches, WW2 bunkers as well as tidal ponds for fishing. I am curious of this northernmost part with its lighthouse so I put on my running shoes and go for a run. I have a fascination of these giant constructions that have been sitting there for centuries, guiding seafarers and taken care of by committed keepers in harsh conditions. The map is somewhat confusing so the time back from the lighthouse becomes significantly longer than expected so a shower and being treated with mussels at a harbour restaurant felt good.

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Ile d’Oleron, beach north of Saint-Denis

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Phare De Chassiron on north point of Ile d’Oleron

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Phare De Chassiron

The next morning we move to Boyardville and reach it in good tide. The harbour master came running since he did not think that we could get in, but I convinced him that an entrance of 7 meters is enough. He looked very sceptic when we squeezed ourselves into the inner harbour with very small margins on each side. I told him that the trick is to grease the hulls, have a bit of speed and a lot of self-confidence. We expected this to be a larger city, but it turned out to be about the same size. It turned out to be the same size and we wander along before we rent bikes and do a biking trip to the cities inland. It is a beautiful landscape and we get some nice views. We also visit the Ile d’Oleron vinery and taste their wines and their Cognac. After a nice long bike trip, we return to the boat and have a great dinner at the boat as the evening sun is beaming down on us.

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Malody next to the narrow inlet to Boyardville harbour

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Bike trip on Ile d’Oleron

Birgittas vacation starts to come to it’s end and we decide to take the last stop on the cruise in Rochefort. This is one of the major naval centres of imperial France and located up the Charante river that gives this region its name. But first we go out to take a look at the Fort Boyard some 2M outside Boyardville. This fort was the most fort ever built in France and was expected to guard the entrance to Rochefort. It is a very strange building in the middle of the ocean. As it was completed in 1860’s the weapon technology has advanced to a stage so it had no purpose and was transformed to a prison. Now it serves as a stage for the Fort Boyard TV shows – in Sweden “Fångarna på Fortet”. The Ile d’Aix next to the fort shows up to be a nice little island.

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Fort Boyard

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Ile d’Aix

Rochefort is very nice city and we wander along the nice streets and take a tour at the naval museum before having a nice dinner down at the docks.

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Going through the narrow inlet to Rochefort harbour

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Melody in Rochefort harbour

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The old naval rope factory

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L’Hermoine

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Rochefort

In the early morning as we need to wait for the high water I jump into my running shoes and the run is magic by the Charante river with slight fog hanging over the low water river bed.

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Morning run by the Charante river at low water

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Nice morning

Our last stop and where we put the boat to rest for some weeks is La Rochelle. A beautiful old city surrounding the harbour with two towers watching the entrance. We take a walk through the city and have a nice dinner in old town. We put the boat in the huge Les Minimes marina with over 3000 (!) berths. Next day, we stroll around in the city and enjoy the sights and visit some marina shops and the next day it is time to depart to Bordeaux.

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The old harbour in La Rochelle

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The huge Les Minimes marina in La Rochelle

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Dnepr tour

Lviv

People have told me repeatedly that I need to go to Lviv. I now understand why. This city is beautiful with its own flavour and feels very Central European and different from other cities in Ukraine. It is proud for three things according to my friends. Its coffee, its chocolate and its beer. I can testify that it certainly lives up to its reputation. The food is good as well 🙂

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Lviv

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Lviv

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Killing another dragon

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Ivana Frank park

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The park at Svobody Avenue

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The Opera house

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Note the statue of liberty on rooftop

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Nice yard

This region has an interesting history. Even the Swedes have been here on our ancient violent trips. Charles XII even took the town by force but as he was interested in keeping the people as allies in his war on Russia he did not burn it down as was the normal custom. But he found a good way to get some money – he nailed the nobles to a wall and put a bucket in front of each of them. When a ransom was paid, the noble was then released and everyone was happy. The current Swedish self-taxation using text message feels better…

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Church of Holy Communion

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Armenian church

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Interior of one of the churches

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Neptune

Wonderful city to just stroll around in, take a coffee or a beer. There are restaurants, cafes and bars everywhere.

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Rynok Square, Lviv

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Lviv Coffee Mining Manufacturer

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Grinding Coffee gives a fantastic smell all over the cafe

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Coffee and chocolate at Lviv Handmade Chocolate

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Beer at the Pravda Beer Theatre

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The popular cherry liquor bar on Rynok square

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Getting the bike cleaned

Sigma has an office in Lviv and Ira at the office has offered her assistance in finding a garage as well as a mechanic who could give the Dnepr some TLC. I go to visit the office which turns out to be a very cool place – top modern with every facility you can think of. My Ukrainian colleagues impress me with their optimism and professionalism and the Lviv office is obviously no different. I join a group of consultants and a client who are down to plan a new release of their software as they went on a city tour and dinner. Feels fortunate to have so many nice colleagues.

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The reception in our cool Lviv office

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One of the conference rooms

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Word!

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City tour with colleagues

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The Kriivka partisan bar with colleagues. They serve vodka too 🙂

But everything has to come to an end. Since it is the Vyshyvanka Day (traditional broidered shirt), I first go out and buy one that I like and get a lecture of its protective benefits. I need to leave the bike in Ira’s caring hands (it turns out that the bike will stay in her own garage). After a nice last lunch at the restaurant next to the office I step on the plane and go home. But I will be back 🙂

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A last cup of coffee could not hurt

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Last ride out to the office

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Me and Ira

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Last day with the colleagues

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Banush – Karpatian corn porridge. Fantastic!

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Dnepr tour

Road trip from Odessa to Lviv

Time to get out on the open plains of Ukraine again! Wonderful feeling!

First stop is Uman – some 300 km north of Odessa. A very nice but a bit boring straight road – especially when you sit at a speed at 60-70 km/h. The bike runs as a clock but drinks its fair share of motor oil as usual. Stopping here and there for fuel, oil and coffee but there is no hurry.

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The open road….

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… and the Mighty Dnepr

Uman is a smaller town than expected and the hotel is located in the Jewish part of the town. Interesting to see the well-established routines but you feel like an outsider when you clearly know nothing about Jewish culture. It also feels strange to be in Ukraine and everything is paid in dollars – more like an international colony.

First thing in the morning is a visit to the famous Sofiyivka Park a 10-minute walk from the hotel. The park has a half million visitors each year and is one of the “Seven Wonders of Ukraine.” Sadly, it starts raining but it is nice to stroll around in this green lung for a while before getting on the bike.

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Sofiyivka Park

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Sofiyivka Park – black swans

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Sofiyivka Park

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Sofiyivka Park

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Sofiyivka Park

Next stop is Vinnitsa – a larger town and more to see and do than in Uman. I decide to take the backroads since todays trip is shorter. Some nice countryside experience with nice views give a very nice ride.

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Backroads on the way to Vinnitsa

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Countryside

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The Nemiroff vodka factory

Vinnitsa has a fountain that is supposed to be one of the 10 most spectacular in the world with music and light shows but today it is idling and not very impressive. But still is is a nice walk though down at the river and a nice view of the town.

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Vinnitsa – church by river Bug

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The Roshen fountain

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Vinnitsa

Up early in the morning to take the bike just outside town to take a look at the remains of the German headquarters “Werwolf”. Nothing remains of the buildings except scattered concrete blocks but you can see the size of the site and there is a museum at the entrance.

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German WW2 Headquarters ”Werwolf”

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Roadside maintenance

The mighty Dnepr then rolls on down to Kamyanets-Podilsky that has been described as a must see. As you roll into the city you understand why. The old city is surrounded by a deep valley with steep cliff walls and with a river at the bottom. The way into the town is blocked by a huge castle. The city center is filled with old genuine houses and churches. This area is also one of “Seven Wonders of Ukraine” and I can understand why.

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The Kamyanets-Podilsky castle at night

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Kamyanets-Podilsky

I get hold of a guide that seemed very well prepared. It turned out that he was a historian and have done a lot of research on the area, got a number of articles published and was specialized in the early Soviet period. A very interesting guide with a deep sea of knowledge to dig out of. The city is known since the early Kievan Rus and mentioned 1062 and was destroyed by the Mongols in 1241. Over the centuries it has belonged to Poland, Turkey, Russia, Lithuania, Austria-Hungary and USSR. He explains the different groups that have lived there, their impact on both the city and the castle and truly knows his stuff. He gets notably excited when he comes into the Soviet period, which is his main period of his research, and you can tell that he studied this a lot. For a researcher like him, this must be a heaven to work in.

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THE guide to Kamyanets-Podilsky

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Old map showing the city

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Motoball. Looks fun!

After a couple of fact-crammed hours, it is time for a more fun based tour on the river on an amphibious vehicle. This is more fun oriented but amazing to get to see the surroundings and everything from below. Very fun experience although they do not allow me to drive this cool thing 🙁

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On the way out of the city

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Rollin’ on the river!

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Da Ride

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The armenian church destroyed in the early Soviet times

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Streets of Kamyanets-Podilsky

Next stop is Ternopil which turns out to be a nice calm city some 100 km from Lviv and second city in the region. Nice place to walk in and a lake forming on the river Seret.

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Ternopil cathedral

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Ternopil centre and opera house

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Ternopil

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Ternopil

Final stop is Lviv and the road from Ternopil is interesting mix of quality. The neat thing about the Dnepr is that I actually go faster than the cars as I am sitting high up and see the potholes better and know exactly where I have my wheels. Riding into Lviv in the evening with the sun setting through the leaves in this beautiful city gives a good feeling even if this is the end stop.

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The bike takes a well deserved break in the shadow in Lviv

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Dnepr tour

Odessa

I have been to Odessa a couple of times and I really enjoy the city. Full of interesting history and an obvious touch of French architecture. Nice parks, good food, street life, beaches and a nice atmosphere.

The main task is obviously to get the bike ready for the road but first day is focused on just walking the city and get the feeling of this nice city.

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I love Odessa – city logo

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Odessa City Garden

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Beautiful Odessa

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Beautiful Odessa – City garden

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Beautiful Odessa – The Passage

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Beautiful Odessa

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Beautiful Odessa – evening lights on Derybasivska.

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The opera house

 

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Primorski promenade

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Worst bartender ever. But nice and good looking 🙂

My friend Konstantin that I met last time has been taken care of the bike very carefully. He and his biker friends have given it a thorough check and changed some worn out parts. Feels good and I will have the possibility to road-check in Odessa before going out on the road. After meeting with Kosta, we go for a ride around town, getting some roadside tools and other equipment and just having a good time. Afterwards, his wife Tania joins us and we go down to the port and eat at the Di Mare fish restaurant.

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Kosta with the Mighty Dnepr

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Everywhere you go, the Dnepr awakens big smiles. Here I get free parking and a sharp guard for the bike

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Me and Kosta

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Kosta and Tania

The next day main activity is a visit to the Odessa winery. Beautiful entrance with two heads over the entrance – one of Russia and one of France. The factory was founded in the Russian times by French winemaker Henri Roederer. They make different styles ranging from dry to sweet and white, rose and red sparkling wine. To me the dry is the nicest but their main production is the semi-sweet ones. Interesting fact that they also hold a special line for Kosher wine where only Jews are allowed to be active in the process. Over the factory, red tapes indicate that this is hands-off for us non-Jews. The guide Evgeniy is very skilled and has a good way of explaining both the history and the wines. A very interesting visit.

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Odessa Winery. Founded by Henri Roederer in 1898

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Odessa Winery. Note the tanks sealed off with red tape. These are Kosher wine only to be handled by Jews

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Odessa Winery. The lineup.

After the wine tasting, I needed a couple of hours to cool down and the nice restaurant Dacha is within walking distance. A very nice place that my colleagues took me to a couple of years ago. A lot of Soviet nostalgia paired with good food and a huge outside garden. A good place to relax.

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Interior from Dacha

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Dacha restaurant

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Dacha

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The bike

Next stop is Battery 411 where there were heavy battle as the Romanian/German troops invaded in the beginning of WW2. This is a site with an interesting range of different weaponry mixed with entrepreneurs selling ice cream and renting carts. There was a small museum connected to the park. Very quiet setting and a good afternoon.

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Display at Battery 411 – a historic site south of Odessa

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Katysha rocket launcer

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Local entrepreneurs everywhere

May 9 is a public holiday to commemorate the ending of WW2 and my Sigma colleague Evgeniy came along and we first visited an interesting display at the Odessa Museum of Western and Eastern art. Nice building and amazing to see these paintings hanging relatively unprotected and close to the viewer. A very good start of the day that continued with a visit to a good grill restaurant where his family joined topped with a visit to a brewery. A very good day!

And I feel well prepared for a nice road trip!

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Rubens painting!

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Loved this!

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A lot of people

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One of the Odessa beaches

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Me and Evgeniy

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Evening lights

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